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WHAT IS MILK PAINT BASE?

Base is simply our Milk Paint Formula with no pigment added. Some of our customers like to add their own 'universal tinting colors' or other water soluble pigments to obtain colors other than the ones we carry. If possible, use 'lime proof' pigments as the lime in the paint tends to bleach out color.

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CAN I MIX YOUR MILK PAINT COLORS TO OBTAIN OTHER COLORS?

Yes! To experiment you should use small amounts of the powders - teaspoons, tablespoons, even fractions of teaspoons. Mix the powders together in a small cup, add a little water and stir well. Paint a sample on a piece of scrapwood or cardboard. Keep in mind the color will look lighter when dry. Write down the ratio of your mixture, this way you will be able to easily duplicate a color combination you like in a larger batch.

To see some examples of how you can mix our colors together to create other colors click here to see the "Paint Chips" photo album on our Facebook page.

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WHY DOESN'T MY CRACKLE FINISH CRACK?

You may have gone over the same spot more than once with your top coat of Milk Paint. Also, make sure the paint is mixed correctly, and it is always a good idea to experiment on some scrap wood first. For more detailed information refer to the "Applications" section on the Antique Crackle Product Bulletin.

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HOW DO I PAINT WALLS OR PLASTER WITH MILK PAINT?

For detailed instructions on how to apply Milk Paint to walls or plaster see 'PAINTING PROCEDURES' in the Milk Paint Product Bulletin. You can paint directly over new plaster, but, as it is so porous, you may end up using far more Milk Paint than necessary if you are going for an opaque coverage. If you are going for a thin washed look, then go right ahead!

Or, try our new SafePaint formula for walls! It was formulated for previously painted walls, new wallboard with joint compound, and plaster. It adheres to almost every clean, sound surface- even metal!

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HOW DO I MAKE A WASH?

Mix the Milk Paint according to the enclosed directions, then add more water and test on a piece of scrap wood. Allow to dry and adjust the mixture with more or less water until you achieve the finish you want.

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IS THE EXTRA BOND REALLY NECESSARY FOR PAINTING OVER PREVIOUSLY FINISHED SURFACES?

We recommend using Extra Bond on anything other than bare wood. Milk Paint needs a porous surface to adhere to, and the use of Extra Bond will greatly help adhesion on non-porous surfaces. New sheetrock walls and plaster are actually too porous and should be primed with a flat latex primer, followed by a first coat of Milk Paint with Extra Bond added. For detailed instructions be sure to read our Extra Bond and Milk Paint product bulletins.

Please note: Our new SafePaint wall formula does not require the use of Extra-Bond.

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DO I REALLY NEED TO SEAL A SURFACE THAT HAS BEEN PAINTED WITH MILK PAINT?

Milk Paint will water-spot white spots if it has not been sealed and something gets spilled on it. It will also spot if it is wiped with water or washed. Decorative pieces, walls etc., do not need to be sealed, but any painted surface subject to spills should be (or if you want to be able to wash the surface). A bench, chair or similar piece of furniture can be waxed or oiled, which provides a nice finish and helps prevent water spotting. We also carry a clear acrylic, Safecoat Acriglaze Matte Finish, which is suitable for most furniture and woodwork applications, but a tabletop, kitchen cabinetry, etc. should have a much tougher finish such as polyurethane for best protection.

We do not know of anything that is incompatible with going over our paint. For best results, test an area with the topcoat you plan to use to make sure that you like the end result.

For more detailed information refer to the "Applications" section of our Milk Paint Product Bulletin.

Please note: SafePaint for walls does not water spot and is washable/wipeable (not scrubbable) when cured. However, it is still a flat paint, so sealing the surface in problem areas where stains might occur may be a consideration.

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DO I NEED TO SEAL A SURFACE THAT I'VE CRACKLED?

If it is a functional piece, or if you will later want to be able to wash the surface, yes. You will need to use a non-waterbased sealer over what you have crackled. This is very important, as a water-based sealer, such as the Acriglaze Matte Finish we carry, will reactivate the crackle and not seal the surface properly. Be sure to use an oil or solvent-based clear finish, or wax.

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I'VE SEEN MILK PAINT IN A CAN BEFORE. HOW IS THAT DIFFERENT FROM YOUR PAINT?

Real, natural, Milk Paint is always made in powder form. Other companies may offer 'Milk Paint Colors' but they are usually oil or acrylic based paints.

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CAN I BUY YOUR MILK PAINT IN SAMPLE SIZES LESS THAN ONE PINT?

Yes, sample sizes are now available from two sources. Samples are great for very small projects or for experimenting with color.

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CAN YOUR MILK PAINT BE SAVED OR STORED ONCE IT HAS BEEN MIXED?

When applying any paint, whether milk paint or any other kind of paint, planning and prior preparation are always key to successful use. So, plan ahead; mix up only the amount you will use that day. Due to the organic nature of true milk paint, it always works best when mixed up fresh.

If you do have leftover paint, you can store it in an airtight container in the refrigerator for a few days or more. Be sure it is not too thick when you go to store it, then add a little water on top without stirring before you put it in the fridge. When you need to use it again, stir well and add a bit more water if necessary.

Our paint contains no preservatives, which is why gelling might occur. Some other paints on the market claim to be real milk paint, but they contain synthetic extenders that will allow a mixed batch to last longer without gelling. But, even with those paints containing synthetic extenders, you will find you get your best results when applying freshly-mixed paint.

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HOW CAN I REMOVE MILK PAINT?

Most modern strippers won't touch Milk Paint. There is a Behlen Masters product, however - P.D.E. paint remover that will remove it. It comes in one pound cans of powder that you mix with water to form a paste. It is the only method of removing milk paint that we know of other than alot of elbow grease and sanding. You can order Behlen's P.D.E. through us or you may be able to find it locally through a distributor who carries Behlen products.

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HELP! I APPLIED THE ACRIGLAZE AND IT HAS TURNED A MILKY WHITE!

This will happen with any water-borne acrylic, including the Acriglaze Matte Finish, under one of the following conditions: it is either too humid where you are applying the finish, or, it has been applied too thickly. What happens is that the top layer of the finish dries quickly, trapping moisture underneath, resulting in a whitish, cloudy, or milky appearance. Sometimes this will clear over time, even a matter of several days, but if it doesn't your only option is to sand through the finish and reapply- under dryer conditions and in a thinner coat. Two thin coats are more desirable than one thick coat.

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HOW DO I ACHIEVE A WORN OR DISTRESSED LOOK?

Many of our customers (such as Pennsylvania Folk, in our Gallery) have far more experience than we do ourselves in various finishing and distressing techniques. Many such practices can be done with Milk Paint (rolling, sponging, ragging, graining, etc.) and there are many books available on decorative painting such as this. Our best advice is to mix up a little paint, get a piece of scrap, and experiment!

If you wish to paint multiple layers of different colors and sand through the edges to expose the underneath color, one tip is to wipe off an edge or corner with a rag while the top layer is still wet. This will save a little effort in sanding once dry, although you'll probably still want to go at it with a little touch-up sanding as well.

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IS MILK PAINT SAFE TO USE ON CHILDREN'S TOYS?

Our genuine Milk Paint is environmentally safe and non-toxic, and considered safe for children's furniture and toys.

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